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Cruising Anarchy


Cruising Anarchy

Anarchist Cindy sent this in from friends who went through the recent earthquake/tsunami.

We were shaken awake by an earthquake which seemed to
have no end! We were aboard Gallivanter and tied side-to a big concrete dock in
the heart of Pago Pago, American Samoa. And after living up &down the
California coast, I knew this was no minor tremor.

After the rude awakening, Cath &I walked across the dock and chatted with a few
of our fellow sailors, one of whom said that he’s just done a Google search on "recent earthquakes" and said that it measured-in at 8.1 and the epicenter was
only 120 miles distant.

We returned to Gallivanter and I turned on our laptop and searched the same
website. Sure enough there it was… "8.1 earthquake – American Samoa- 20
minutes ago". I clicked on the "Show Map" option and noticed the epicenter was
located south west of Pago Pago… which is located on the southern side of the
island.

Just as I was considering the ramifications of that little fact… all hell
started breaking loose! Our boat was on the move!

My first reaction was to
start the engine and dash up on deck to see what was going on. I witnessed the
water around us was rapidly dropping! Rapidly! In a blink of an eye, we were on
the bottom and the boat was falling away from the dock! Three of our big dock
lines popped and we fell right over into the mud – the entire basin we had
been floating in only moments ago had completely drained! People were
screaming!

Next – the water came flooding back in at an even more alarming rate and the
next thing I knew we were floating directly above the dock! Over the concrete
slab and drifting toward a young lady we knew (from another boat) who was
desperately hugging a power pole and up to her chin in swirling water! I told
Cath to cut the two remaining dock lines with our serrated bread knife and to
be quick about it!

Right as I put the boat into gear, we were somehow washed back off the dock and
into the basin as I advance to full throttle and we accelerated through a
floating debris field of floating docks, fuel drums, sinking boats, a shipping
container and a barnicle encrusted wreck all of which were spinning in the
torrent of rapidly dropping sea level. It was absolute mayhem!

As we steered
out toward the deep water in the center of the harbor I looked over my shouder
and saw what appeared to be a waterfall pouring off the dock and shore beyond. Not one of the dozen vessels remained at the dock. All were underway in a
matter of seconds… with or without crews aboard. We motored around in the middle of the harbor watching the waves of floods& ebbs while wondering about after-shocks and our fellow cruising sailors. As we
passed one of our neighbors she shouted to us that her husband had been washed
off the dock as they were trying to get away. She was alone and seriously
concerned. Other boats broke free from their moorings and anchors in the
initial seismic wavesand many were driven ashore, or driven under by loose
tuna boats.

After about three hours, we felt it was finally safe enough to return to the
dock. All we had were lengths of old line and we were short a couple fenders.
We were the first to go in and we started un-tangling lines and helping others
get back along side the concrete dock. All of the store-fronts along the
water are destroyed, roving mobs of kids can be seen looting, the fence around
the dock is gone, every boat on stands in a nearby boatyard were washed away.
Big fishing boats are now in parking lots across the street.

Absolute
destruction is seen everywhere along the shore.

Phones and power are down but we got back online right away and I immediately
went back to the recent earthquakes website to see if things have been calming
down in the center of the earth. A number of aftershocks as strong as 6.0 have
been recorded over the past few hours – but thankfully no more wave action has
been noticed. We’ve been making Skype calls to our families and letting others
use the computer as well to phone home.

Online news reports say that the earthquake lasted three minutes and the highest
flood rose 25 ft above normal! There are 20 confirmed deaths… including our
neighbor who was swept off the dock. Most fatalities occured in and around the harbor where we live. Boats are battered and nerves are fried. One
friend wound-up on his boat nearly 1000 feet away from the water after breaking
from his anchor and sailing right down Main St. taking power &telephone wires
down with his mast! Some people lost everything… including their lives. We
came through remarkably well with only minor dammage sustained to our toe rail
when the dock lines parted and to our fender basket which was the only point of
contact with that drifting wreck. I never felt any jarring loads while we were
hurtling around above &below the concrete dock, so I believe our hull, keel& rudder suffered no dammage from the wildest boat ride I’ve ever been on.

We’re all okay… and very lucky.

And we’ve adopted a tiny kitten.

And that’s the way it is

All the Best – All the Time,
Kirk, Cath &Stuart
s/v Gallivanter